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Optional extension · Interactive lesson

Mechanical Waves & Representations

A wave's displacement depends on where you look and when, and no single graph can show both. This topic teaches you to freeze one variable at a time: stop the clock and you photograph the whole medium, stay at one point and you log one particle's motion. Most wave problems are a translation between those two graphs.

UPI-EXT-WS.01 · Lesson 1 of 11 in this extension. Position is not a completion score.
Starting model: Mechanical Waves & RepresentationsTop: a snapshot of a 2 m pulse, steep front and gentle tail, peak 4 cm, moving to +x at 1.0 m/s, frozen at t = 5.00 s; the arrow spans one second of travel. Bottom: the history of the particle at x₀ = 6.0 m. The pulse arrives at t = 4.00 s, rises for 0.50 s and falls for 1.50 s, steep side first. Both dots mark the same y, 2.67 cm.snapshot: y against x at t = 5.00 sv = 1.0 m/s12 mprobe x₀ = 6.0 mhistory: y against t at x₀ = 6.0 m12 snow
Start with a picture. Change the model in the lab below.

Optional extension. Use Waves & Sound only if your university includes it in Physics I. Optional work is not a required completion gate.

1

Build the model

The pattern travels; the medium only moves aside and comes back.

The key idea

A mechanical wave is a disturbance that travels through a material medium at a speed set by that medium, carrying energy from place to place while each particle of the medium only oscillates about its own equilibrium position.

Example. Shake a long spring at 2.5 Hz and the crests sit 0.60 m apart, so the pattern runs along at v = fλ = 2.5 × 0.60 = 1.5 m s⁻¹, while a ribbon tied to one coil just swings from side to side once every 0.40 s and never leaves its place.

The complete physical model and assumptions

A mechanical wave exists because neighbouring pieces of a medium are coupled. Pull one segment of a stretched string aside and the tension drags the next segment after it, a moment later, and that one drags the next. What travels is the disturbance, and with it energy and momentum; the matter only leaves its equilibrium position and returns, across the direction of travel in a transverse wave and along it in a longitudinal one. Because the displacement depends on both place and time, y(x, t) needs two graphs. A snapshot holds t fixed and shows the shape in space, where wavelength lives. A history holds x fixed and shows one particle's motion, where period lives. They are tied together by one assumption, that the shape travels undistorted at speed v, so y(x, t) = F(x − vt): whatever happens here happens a distance d downstream a time d/v later. For a periodic wave the same statement says the pattern advances one wavelength per period, v = λ/T = fλ, with v set by the medium and f by the source. The model holds for small disturbances in a uniform, lossless, non-dispersive medium. Large amplitudes, damping, or a speed that depends on frequency all change the shape as it goes, and then no single F describes it.

1What travels and what stays behind

Flick one end of a long stretched spring and a hump runs to the far end. Tie a ribbon to one coil and watch that instead: it moves aside by a few centimetres, comes back, and stays where it was. That is the defining feature of a mechanical wave. The disturbance, and the energy that goes with it, crosses the medium; the matter does not. It works because each piece of the medium is coupled to the next by a restoring force, tension in a string or pressure in a gas, so a displaced piece pulls its neighbour after it with a delay set by how stiff the coupling is and how much mass has to be moved. That delay, not the hand, fixes the wave speed. If the hump crosses a 9.0 m spring in 1.5 s then v = 6.0 m s⁻¹, and a harder flick makes a taller hump that still takes 1.5 s. Remove the medium and there is nothing to couple, which is what separates these waves from light.

2Transverse and longitudinal: which way the medium moves

Classify a wave by comparing two directions: the way the disturbance travels and the way the particles are displaced. On a string the particles move at right angles to the travel direction, so the wave is transverse. Push and pull the end of a slinky along its length and bunched-up coils run down it while each coil shuffles forwards and backwards: a longitudinal wave, the kind sound is. A solid resists both squeezing and shearing, so it carries both types, at different speeds. In crustal rock an earthquake's longitudinal P wave travels at about 6.0 km s⁻¹ and its transverse S wave at about 3.5 km s⁻¹, so 100 km away they arrive 16.7 s and 28.6 s after the rupture, and the 11.9 s gap tells a seismologist the distance. The body of a fluid cannot pull back sideways, so it carries only longitudinal waves. For those, plot the displacement s along the travel direction; the graph looks transverse, but the medium is not shaped like it.

3Two variables, so two graphs

y(x, t) has two inputs and a sheet of paper has one horizontal axis. Hold the time fixed and plot y against x: that is a snapshot graph, a photograph of the entire medium at one instant. Hold the position fixed and plot y against t: that is a history graph, the log of one particle's motion for the whole experiment. Read the axis label before anything else, because for a sinusoidal wave the two graphs look identical. From a snapshot you read the amplitude A, the maximum displacement from equilibrium (half the crest-to-trough height), and the wavelength λ, the distance after which the shape repeats. From a history you read the same A and the period T, the time for one particle to complete one cycle, with f = 1/T. Neither graph alone contains the wave speed. You need one of each, or two snapshots a known time apart, or two histories a known distance apart.

4One wavelength per period

Stand at one point of a periodic wave as a crest passes. One period later that particle is at the top again, which means the next crest has arrived: the pattern has moved forward by exactly one crest spacing. Distance λ in time T gives v = λ/T = fλ. The equation is easy to misread as saying that raising f raises v. It does not, because v belongs to the medium. Shake a spring on which waves travel at 3.0 m s⁻¹ at 4.0 Hz and the crests are 3.0 ÷ 4.0 = 0.75 m apart; shake it at 8.0 Hz and they close up to 0.375 m while the wave still covers 3.0 m every second. The source chooses f, the medium chooses v, and λ = v/f is the consequence. When a wave crosses into a different medium the frequency is the quantity that survives, because each particle at the boundary drives the next at the rate it is itself driven.

5Turning a snapshot into a history

Take a pulse moving towards +x at 4.0 m s⁻¹. The snapshot at t = 0 shows it occupying 2.0 m to 5.0 m with a 3.0 cm peak at x = 4.0 m: a steep 1.0 m front and a gentle 2.0 m tail. What does the particle at x = 9.0 m do? Use Δt = Δx/v feature by feature. The front foot has 4.0 m to go and arrives at 1.00 s; the peak has 5.0 m to go and arrives at 1.25 s; the tail foot has 7.0 m to go and leaves at 1.75 s. So the history is flat, rises in 0.25 s, then falls over 0.50 s. The steep side, on the right of the snapshot, is on the left of the history, because whatever is furthest along in x arrives earliest in t. Algebra says the same: y(9.0 m, t) = F(9.0 m − vt), and as t grows the argument of F shrinks, so time runs through the shape backwards. For a wave moving towards −x the argument is x + vt and there is no mirroring.

6The slope of the graph is the medium's velocity

A particle's velocity is the rate of change of its own displacement, vᵧ = ∂y/∂t, where the curly ∂ only means differentiate with respect to t while holding x fixed. That is the slope of the history graph. In the pulse above, the particle at 9.0 m rises 3.0 cm in 0.25 s, so vᵧ = +0.12 m s⁻¹, then falls 3.0 cm in 0.50 s, so vᵧ = −0.060 m s⁻¹. The snapshot holds the same information. Differentiating F(x − vt) by the chain rule gives ∂y/∂t = −v ∂y/∂x: the front has snapshot slope −0.030 m ÷ 1.0 m = −0.030, and −(4.0 m s⁻¹)(−0.030) = +0.12 m s⁻¹, as before. Two lessons follow. Ahead of an advancing crest the medium is moving up and behind it the medium is moving down, since the crest is about to reach the first and has just left the second. And the particle speed depends on the amplitude and steepness of the wave, while the wave speed of 4.0 m s⁻¹ depends on neither.

2

Key equations

Read the units, assumptions and limits before substituting.

Undistorted travelling wave

y(x, t) = F(x − vt) towards +x · F(x + vt) towards −x

One function of one variable holds the whole wave. A snapshot is F slid along by vt; for travel towards +x a history runs through F backwards.

y displacement (m) · x position (m) · t time (s) · v wave speed (m s⁻¹) · F is the shape at t = 0

One wavelength per period

v = λ/T = fλ, with f = 1/T

Links the snapshot's repeat distance to the history's repeat time. The medium fixes v, the source fixes f, and λ is whatever is left.

λ wavelength (m) · T period (s) · f frequency (Hz = s⁻¹) · v in m s⁻¹

Delay and duration from distance

Δt = Δx / v

A point Δx downstream repeats the same history Δt later, and a feature Δx long takes Δt to pass one point. Two probes measure v this way.

Δx distance along the travel direction (m) · Δt time lag or passage time (s)

Particle velocity from either graph

vᵧ = ∂y/∂t = −v ∂y/∂x (travel towards +x)

The medium's velocity is a slope, not the wave speed. Ahead of a crest the snapshot slopes down, so the particle there is moving up.

vᵧ velocity of a particle of the medium (m s⁻¹) · ∂y/∂t history slope · ∂y/∂x snapshot slope (no unit)

Transverse or longitudinal

transverse: displacement ⊥ travel · longitudinal: displacement ∥ travel

A graph of s against x is not a picture of the medium. Compressions sit where s falls through zero as x increases, rarefactions where it rises.

longitudinal displacement is written s(x, t), in m, measured along the travel direction
3

Interactive lab

Predict first. Explore the model. Compare the result.

Explore the model

5.00 s
0 to 6 s; steps of 0.25.
1.0 m/s
0.8 to 2 m/s; steps of 0.2.
6.0 m
3 to 8 m; steps of 0.5.

Try this. Set v to 1.0 m/s: the history is the snapshot mirrored left to right. Drag t from 4 s to 6 s and the snapshot slides while the history stays put and only the now line moves. Raise v to 2.0 m/s: the pulse is still 2 m long on the string, but it passes the probe in 1.00 s instead of 2.00 s.

Live results

LEADING EDGE NOW AT x
7.00 m
PULSE REACHES PROBE AT t
4.00 s
TIME TO PASS PROBE 2 m ÷ v
2.00 s
y AT PROBE NOW
2.67 cm

Results follow this lesson’s model and assumptions. Displayed values are rounded.

Interactive Physics I modelTop: a snapshot of a 2 m pulse, steep front and gentle tail, peak 4 cm, moving to +x at 1.0 m/s, frozen at t = 5.00 s; the arrow spans one second of travel. Bottom: the history of the particle at x₀ = 6.0 m. The pulse arrives at t = 4.00 s, rises for 0.50 s and falls for 1.50 s, steep side first. Both dots mark the same y, 2.67 cm.snapshot: y against x at t = 5.00 sv = 1.0 m/s12 mprobe x₀ = 6.0 mhistory: y against t at x₀ = 6.0 m12 snow
Top: a snapshot of a 2 m pulse, steep front and gentle tail, peak 4 cm, moving to +x at 1.0 m/s, frozen at t = 5.00 s; the arrow spans one second of travel. Bottom: the history of the particle at x₀ = 6.0 m. The pulse arrives at t = 4.00 s, rises for 0.50 s and falls for 1.50 s, steep side first. Both dots mark the same y, 2.67 cm.

Predict → change one variable → check

Plan a change before running it. Every other input stays at the saved baseline.

Saved baseline. Time now t: 5.00 s; Wave speed v: 1.0 m/s; Probe position x₀: 6.0 m

Baseline 5.00; choose 0 to 6, in steps of 0.25.
4. Compared with the saved baseline, this result will…

This experiment is kept only while this page is open. It does not change saved course progress.

4

Catch the common trap

The commonest error is to treat a history graph as a photograph of the wave. Students measure the spacing of its peaks and call it a wavelength, or sketch the history of a pulse by copying the snapshot shape unchanged. The horizontal axis is time and the graph describes one particle, so peak spacing is the period T, and widths are durations equal to length ÷ v. For a wave moving towards +x the shape is also reversed, because the front of the pulse, furthest along in x, reaches the particle first and so sits at the smallest t. The same confusion of pictures makes students give the medium the wave's velocity: a point on a string never moves along the string, and its speed vᵧ is a slope on the graph, usually far smaller than v.

5

Practice & worked examples

3 authored examples. Make an attempt, then reveal the reasoning one step at a time.

EasyExample 1

A wave machine drives a periodic transverse wave along a long stretched spring. A photograph shows neighbouring crests at x = 0.35 m and x = 1.15 m, with the crests 6.0 cm higher than the troughs. A motion sensor aimed at a single coil counts 12 complete oscillations in 4.8 s. Find the amplitude, wavelength, period, frequency and wave speed, and say which record each came from.

Sketch your answer or reasoning, then compare it with the authored solution. Your writing is not automatically graded or saved.

0 of 5 steps revealed.

MediumExample 2

Two motion sensors watch a rope at x₁ = 1.20 m and x₂ = 4.80 m. A single pulse gives sensor 1 a history that leaves zero at t = 0.30 s, peaks at 2.4 cm at t = 0.38 s and returns to zero at t = 0.62 s. Sensor 2 records the same shape starting at t = 1.20 s. Find the wave speed, the length of the pulse on the rope and which end of it is steeper, and locate the pulse at t = 0.80 s.

Sketch your answer or reasoning, then compare it with the authored solution. Your writing is not automatically graded or saved.

0 of 6 steps revealed.

HardExample 3

A pulse on a long wire is described by y(x, t) = (0.030 m) exp(−[(x + 2.5t − 8.0)/0.40]²), with x in metres and t in seconds. A sensor watches the wire at x = 3.0 m. Find the pulse's direction and speed, the time its peak reaches the sensor, the form of the history graph there, and the greatest upward speed of the wire at the sensor together with the instant it occurs.

Sketch your answer or reasoning, then compare it with the authored solution. Your writing is not automatically graded or saved.

0 of 6 steps revealed.

6

Quick check

Select an answer and explain it before checking.

A pulse travels towards +x at 2.0 m s⁻¹ along a string. A snapshot at t = 0 shows it occupying 1.0 m ≤ x ≤ 3.0 m, with its 4.0 cm peak at x = 2.5 m, so the front edge is steeper than the back. Which statement describes the history graph of the particle at x = 5.0 m?
7

Review & continue

A mechanical wave is a disturbance that travels through a material medium at a speed set by that medium, carrying energy from place to place while each particle of the medium only oscillates about its own equilibrium position.

  • Explain the relationship without looking at the equation.
  • Check a sign, a unit and a model assumption in your working.
  • Return to the lab or worked example if a step is still unclear.

Optional supporting lessons

These chapter resources can help with earlier ideas; they are not additional required Physics I completion tasks.

Extra challenging questions

Connect several ideas, explore supplied data, and compare your reasoning with a worked solution.